Founded in 1459, the oldest of Rajputana's great cities, Jodha's Jodhpur preceded Bika's Bikaner by thirty years, Udai Singh's Udaipur by more than a hundred, and Jai Singh's Jaipur by nearly three centuries. Dominated by one of India's mightiest fortresses, the capital of the warrior Rathores has played hostess to kings and emperors and tsars; to humble saints and celebrated soldiers; to many a distinguished statesman of our times and of times gone by. Enemies parted friends. Friends return. Not  the richest, though perhaps the most charming, Jodhpur, the gate-way to the Great Indian Thar Desert, stands alone as the cultural and spiritual capital of this, the Land of Kings.

The twin mini-domes of Fateh Pol,  the walled city's entrance to Mehrangarh. The Gate of Victory was built by Maharaja Ajit Singh in 1707 to commemorate his triumph over the Mughals. It opens out into Brahmpuri, The Colony of the Brahmins, Jodhpur's oldest residential section. As old indeed as the fort itself.

At once the essence and charm of life in the old walled city. Time has no meaning here as these residents of Brahmpuri congregate in a  hatai; an informal conference to grumble, philosophize, gossip and ponder. Many more, as easily diverted, will join them as the day progresses. And in Jodhpur it is said, " where there will be a square there will be a hatai !"

For years homes in Brahmpuri have been washed with a particular blue neel  or indigo tint. It is an adept reflector of sunlight and keeps interiors cool. The blue is now becoming popular in all parts of the old city and Jodhpur may soon rival the Pink City as Rajasthan's Blue City, even as Brahmpuri loses its colourful distinction.The streets in the walled city are narrow to minimize sunlight and maximize hours in shade.The hot summer wind from the Thar, the loo, is sliced and whistles through, ever cooler. Interestingly, in the old days heavy traffic, camel and bullock carts, was permitted in the city only for two hours in the afternoon during the siesta.

Chand Baori, the oldest baori or step-well in the city, it was built by Jodha's queen, Rani Chand Kawar, soon after construction began on Bhakurcheeria. Built essentially to harness seepage from Rani Sar, The Queen's Lake in the fort, it is a stone's throw from Mehrangarh and remains an important source of water in Brahmpuri.

An impressive Krishna temple built by Maharaja Ajit Singh and then completely renovated by Maharaja Bijaya Singh in the latter half of the eighteenth century, The Gangshyamji ka Mandir is known thus beacuse the idol itself was brought to Jodhpur by the Rathore ruler, Rao Ganga's queen. A princess of Sirohi, south of Marwar, in the sixteenth century, she was asked by her father what she would like to take with her in her dowry. The only thing she wanted, she replied, was the idol. Her father said he would not be able to give it to her but if it followed her to Jodhpur he would allow it to. Legend has it that it walked to Jodhpur. Ganga installed the idol in a temple in the fort. Later Maharaja Ajit Singh raised this temple in the city.

Jodhpur's answer to the supermarket, the early twentieth century Sardar Market Square. Built by Maharaja Sardar Singh it houses the city's only clock-tower and is a veritable shopper's paradise; selling everything from vegetables and fruit to glass bangles and silver jewelry to rare books and American WW II jerry cans! Roadside doctors, dentists and barbers thrive around the tower.

The Sojati Pol or gate, once the main entrance to the walled city. The walls have long vanished and today the gate finds itself a traffic roundabout, albeit an important one for it is often regarded as modern Jodhpur's city centre. In the old days all six city gates would be closed at dusk after which no one was allowed to enter or leave the city. Water in the summer and wood in winter was provided to travelers waiting for the gates to open at dawn.

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